
Yo BMF,
First an introduction: My name is Charles Cole and I'm a senior concentrating in economics and a member of Leverett House. I'm studying abroad in Brazil for the semester and want to share a little bit about it. Also even if you don't read this the whole way through, definitely go check out the OIP (http://www.fas.harvard.edu/~oip/), to figure out how you can go abroad sometime in your college career. This applies to seniors as well - there are definitely grants for post-grad travel/research/etc. In fact, Rob Watson of '09 is in Brazil right now on a fellowship.
I'm writing on the occasion of getting my first haircut in Brazil, where I've been enjoying tropical fruit juices and struggling to speak Portuguese for the past few weeks. After weeks of being afraid of getting an irreversibly bad haircut in Brazil, I was happy to see that the clippers and everything are the same here as they are in the U.S. That was a welcome similarity after weeks of being in a world very different from where I'm from.
I'm in the city of Fortaleza. Its the 5th biggest city in Fortaleza and its about the size of Chicago or Houston. Its in Northeast region of the country which means a few things:
* The large majority of days have highs of 85 and lows of 75 degrees.
* The large majority of people here are nonwhite (but know that its hard to pin down "race" per se in Brazil)
* The large majority of people are poor
By comparison, The Southern part of the country (where Rio de Janiero and Sao Paulo are) has seasons, is majority white, and has lower percentage of poverty
Its hard to make any generalizations about Brazil (its the same size as the United States.) But here is a quick rundown of my own experience and oservations:
FoodI imagine that I have consumed more rice, beans, bananas, and fresh juice in the last few weeks than I have in some entire years of my life. Those are the staple foods here, and luckily, I like them a lot. Otherwise, it'd be a long semester.
SchoolMy only real class is Portuguese. Outside of that, we have lectures and readings on the inequalities/social issues in Brazil. We also spend a lot of time visiting different nonprofit organizations/ social movements in the city/region.
For the last 3 weeks of the program I'm going to do independent research on solar energy development programs in the region. I hope to be in/near Salvador, Bahia, for my research project. The city is considered the center of Afro-Brazilian culture.
Culture*I feel like everyone in Brazil can dance exceptionally well. Its a few main types of song/dance that everyone seems to know and can do all seem to do them amazingly well. The big ones here are forro and samba.
*Soccer here is like baseball, football, and basketball combined in terms of popularity. You can find people outisde playing full tournaments past midnight on basketball courts, beaches, and anything else you can put a ball on.
*Capoiera is also pretty incredible to watch. Its hard to explain, but heres some youtube:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMX9KKzG4-0&feature=related
Urban Life*Riding the bus everyday is pretty intense. Since they dont have trains, the bus system is packed full of people. And you can only exit out of one end of the buses here. The end result: a lot of pushing and shoving for everybody, and for some people pickpocketing and sexual harassment.
*In general petty crime is pretty common. So far 4 of the 13 people in the program have been robbed on the street. It hasn't been anything violent, but its very common to get cell phones, cameras, and wallets taken.
America*If Barack Obama and Michael Jackson had approval ratings in Brazil, I’m sure they would be higher than their ratings in America. Everyone seems to love them
*In general American music (in English) and movies (in portuguese) are pretty popular here. For instance, I went to a costume party as Indiana Jones and everyone got it. (Of course I’m sure familiarity with American pop culture varies across classes)
*People actually don’t realize I’m American. They know I’m not Brazilian, because I can’t speak Portuguese fluently. So they ask if I am African – everytime. One cab driver actually laughed when I said I was American and said I was the “darkest” exchange student he ever met.
*They also have certain slang from America too. For example, when two black guys greet each other its common for them to call each other “brother” – as in the English word.
What’s Next?I’m already halfway done with my academic semester. The rest of the program will be packed with trips outside of the city of Fortaleza and me doing independent research. We’ll be going to the cities of Salvador and Recife and visiting rural areas.
I hope to follow up with some Remix worthy analysis of the social dynamics, racial complexities, and all that jazz.
In the meantime, 7.
Charles '10